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VVC blanking kit, Sabre's design
Having been supplied with blanking KIT from the only supplier in the market I kept finding points that bothered me. I then was asked by a German customer could I supply a kit with a rear plate to retain/mount a distributor ignition assembly, thus began my inhouse hand made kit with a few improvements- the icing on the cake being the only assembly available to just slap your distributor assembly on just as you would on a standard head casting- two screws job done.
This is my 'cream on the cake', as described above, it was developed by taking elements of a std casting heads rear dist. mount area & melding it into the VVC rear blank plate form.
Ideal for those plonking a VVC head onto a basic early 1800 118hp block with dist ign.
Plus for those plonking a K series into a retro car model- like a sprite, a classic mini & many others, you can retain that retro dist ign cap & leads look!!!!
This plate is a rear for heads not using a distributor ign.
You also do not require a rear cam seal so we simply deleted the seal requirement, one less part cost, no more leaks or rusty cam ends protruding!!!
As you can see in the next picture, couple the rear plate with a KV6 rover cam blanking cap (infinitely re-usable) on the exh cam rear & its a very smart result.
Finally we have the side plate to cover the now removed VVC hydraulic control unit mounting point openings.
Unlike the solid plate supplied in the kit sold in the market by the other producer, i have put a simple passage/opening into the plate for access to one of the many cam retaining 'ladder' bolts, this stops the need to forever have to remove & reseal, refit the plate every dang time you want to access the bolt to undo it- insanity!!
A NOTE, Most purchasers of VVC blanking kits do not know you need to block the oil feed channel under the above sideplate- no matter how much, or what sealer is used in the plate joint, they leak!! such is the high oil pressure in the engine.
I supply a grubscrew, but you will need to pay someone/borrow or buy the 10 by 1.5mm tap needed to thread the oil hole in the ladder yourself!!
I suggest use a sealing agent like loctite 222/243 in/on the threads so oil cannot seep- or the screw vibrate loose.
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